WTF is exfoliation and why is everyone always telling me to do it?
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Exfoliation (removal of dead cells from the surface of the skin) is an essential part of skin care which many of us neglect. ALL skin types can benefit from exfoliation and the results you will see from adding exfoliation to your routine will be noticeable and fast. There are many improvements associated with a gentle, yet thorough sloughing of dead skin cells; here are just a few:
1) Improve texture and keep the skin soft and glowing
2) Helps to prevent the clogging of pores and therefore helps to reduce acne breakouts quickly and noticeably. The duration and scarring of acne lesions is also greatly reduced.
3) Keeps skin cell production at an optimal level. As we agenour skin slows down the production of cells significantly. Exfoliation helps to stimulate cell production, keeping skin working efficiently and at its optimum levels.
4) Helps with skin discoloration (uneven tone) associated with sun damage, post inflammatory hyper pigmentation (pigmentation due to previous damage from acne or injury also known as PIH) and melasma (hormonal pigmentation)
5) Leads to visibly brighter skin
6) Stimulates collagen production and helps to keep fine lines and wrinkles in check.
7) Improves the penetration and subsequently the results of any serums, treatments or products used.
8) Reduces the appearance and occurrence of ingrown hairs from shaving or waxing.
In spa treatments: There are myriad types of exfoliation available in the treatment center to choose from, here is a rundown of some of the most commonly available. Peels can often cause flaking. To lessen this and prepare the skin for optimal results use an at home exfoliant for 6 weeks with 10 days off before receiving a peel.
Microdermabrasion-DON'T TRY THIS ONE AT HOME! Using a diamond tipped wand or crystals combined with suction, micro helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells and smooths out fine lines and wrinkles. Best results are acheived with a series of 3 or 5 and then follow ups every 6 months. Results oriented and can be more abrasive and irritating.
Glycolic-a lipophilic (oil loving) acid with excellent brightening and clarifying properties. The downside to this acid is that it has a very small molecule which slips into the skin deeply which can make it more irritating. Works well for oily, thick skin because it brightens and dissolves oil and impactions. Also great for fine lines and mature skin if used correctly. Tends to have a light, stingly (bit of sting, bit of tingle) feeling that subsides quickly.
Salicylic acid-another lipophilic (oil loving) acid which clarifies sensitive, breakout skin. Although it can sometimes create flaky skin for a couple days it is an excellent treatment for more sensitive skin because it is effective yet gentle Tends to sting even though it is gentle.
Lactic Acid-excellent acid for dry skin as it helps to stimulate hydration in sensitive and mature skin. Also helps to brighten sun damage and acne scars.
TCA- Trichloroacetic acid is a medium to deep penetration peel. This peel will help to brighten skin and help to smooth out medium depth wrinkles and lines in the skin. TCA can cause flaking for 3 to 10 days but the results are phenomenal. Great for ethnic, mature, sensitive skin.
ENZYMES-derived from natural ingredients from things such as pineapple, papaya and pumpkin enzymes digest dead skin cells gently leaving behind glowing healthy skin. Enzymes are a wonderful introduction to professional exfoliation as they are results oriented, customizable and gentle.
Combination therapy (or peels using a combination of acids or microderm with a peel) is the most effective type of exfoliation. You can get the results you want with lower concentrations of each acid which gives you the results you want with less irritation. Also you get the benefits of each type of acid so you are building results upon results.
Skin Secrets Recommends:
Keep in mind that the beauty industry is a billion dollar industry and there are literally thousands of exfoliants available to you. Navigating these can be daunting but don't fret because here's a basic run down for you! Most licensed estheticians are happy to offer free consultations and help you to find the right products for you based on your skin type, ethnicity, activity levels and sun exposure. I don't recommend purchasing products from the drugstore or department stores because most of what you are paying for is marketing and the actual products tend to be full of fillers. Most spa worthy products are highly concentrated which means you need to use much less and in consequence the product will last much longer, making them just as cost effective.
Dry/Mature/Sensitive
Dry skin benefits immensely from gentle exfoliation. Once dry, flaky skin is removed moisturizers are able to slip right into the skin and nourish more deeply. Mature skin NEEDS exfoliation as the skin slows down its cell production immensely as we age. Regular exfoliation helps to keep cell renewal and production at optimum rates. Sensitive skin is strengthened with gentle exfoliation.
Oily
Oily skin tends to experience congestion so regular exfoliation is a must. Look for glycolic or salicylic acid in cleanser (speaking of cleansers, oil cleanser is a MUST try for oily skin.. see my OIL CLEANSER post). Bi-weekly pumpkin or glycolic treatments keep skin glowing and help to regulate oil. Be wary of over exfoliation, you don't ever want to feel squeaky clean and tight. Your skin will actually produce MORE oil to compensate
